It's nice to see the neighborhood changing for the better. The chefs at the Pickled Heron are really trying to do something different, doing something well, in Fishtown/East Kensington, and they're succeeding.
I was dining with my friend Emily, and we started with the mussels. They came in a good white wine sauce, and were a nice way to start the meal. For our entrees I immediately chose the duck. While not as flavorful as other duck dishes I've had, the whole dish was well composed, especially the grilled sausage on the side. Emily stuck with the bream and enjoyed the fish topped with fennel, mussels, and squid. The food is solid.
Sure there are a few things to complain about. The menu is small, six starters and six entrees. It doesn't cater to vegetarians (that's French food for you). The service is leisurely but not slow. It's cash only. But overall, there isn't really anything that takes away from the dining experience. The biggest problem is that the dining room is overcrowded with chairs. This would be less of a problem if the place was packed. But I visited on a saturday night and the place was jammed full of tables, only half of which were occupied.
I like that this spot is BYO, and the servers are really attentive with the wine. Everyone's white wines chill in a communal ice bath. The portions are good, and the menu is reasonably priced for the food, if not a tad high for the 'hood. And while the menu doesn't offer a whole lot of variety, I do respect places that focus on doing things well, even if there are only six of those things.
Bottom Line: Decent BYO with French inspiration. Certainly worth checking out.
2218 Frankford Ave
Philadelphia, PA 19125(215) 634-5666
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